Ford F-150 weak points: what to check when buying used

Which F-150 you are looking at

The recent generations are the eleventh (2004–2008), the twelfth (2009–2014), the thirteenth (2015–2020, with an aluminium body) and the fourteenth (from 2021). The engines you will meet most: the 4.6 and 5.4 three-valve V8s (until 2010), the 5.0 V8 (from 2011), the 3.5 EcoBoost twin-turbo V6 (from 2011), the 2.7 EcoBoost (from 2015), a 3.0 diesel on some years and, from 2021, a hybrid. The VIN tells you which engine the truck left the factory with.

Engine: what to check

• 4.6 and 5.4 three-valve V8 (2004–2010): a ticking or diesel-like rattle at idle, worse when warm, points to the cam phasers and the timing chain system; oil changes on time matter. The spark plugs of early engines are known to break when removed, which makes a plug change expensive: ask whether they were changed. A tick when cold can be an exhaust manifold leak from broken studs.
• 3.5 EcoBoost, 2011–2016: the timing chain can stretch; a rattle at a cold start and a check-engine light are the signs. Ask whether the chain was replaced.
• 3.5 EcoBoost, from 2017: a loud rattle for a few seconds at start-up is the cam phasers; Ford issued service fixes. Ask for the repair history.
• 2.7 EcoBoost: some trucks leak oil from the composite oil pan; Ford published a fix with a new pan. Look under the engine for oil.
• 5.0 V8: some 2018–2020 engines use oil. Check the dipstick and ask how much oil the truck takes between changes.
• Cold start: ask for the engine to be cold; see Cold start: what to listen for and look at.

Gearbox, four-wheel drive and towing

• Ten-speed automatic (from 2017): harsh, erratic or delayed shifts have been reported, and software updates exist. It should shift smoothly in traffic and under load; ask what updates were done.
• Six-speed automatic (older): it should shift without slipping or flares; ask when its fluid was changed, especially on a truck that towed.
• Four-wheel drive: check that 4H and 4L engage and disengage with the dashboard lights following. On 2009–2014 trucks a grinding noise from the front wheels in two-wheel drive often comes from the vacuum-operated front hubs.
• Towing and work use: a worn tow hitch and wiring, a scratched or dented bed, sagging rear springs, worn brakes and a gearbox that runs hot all point to a hard life. A tow package is not a bad sign on its own, but the price should match the use.

Body, frame and history

• Rust on steel trucks (until 2014): check the cab corners, the rocker panels, the rear wheel arches, the bed and the frame, especially in snow-belt states and other places with road salt.
• Aluminium body (from 2015): it does not rust like steel, but repairs need a body shop equipped for aluminium. Check the paint thickness and the gaps for signs of a poor repair; see How to check a car’s paint and accident damage.
• Lifts and modifications: lift kits, big tyres and engine tunes add load to the driveline and the steering.
• Floods: trucks get resold after floods too; see How to tell if a car has been in a flood.

Before you pay

Check open recalls on the NHTSA website and ask a Ford dealer by VIN for the service and warranty history. Do the whole inspection from How to check a used car before you buy it and a drive with some highway speed from the used car test drive checklist. Use what you find to negotiate: cam phasers, timing chains and a gearbox repair are known, priced jobs.